Charms, Coquette and The Cool-Girl Mentality: The Era of Customization
- Alexia Hill
- Apr 17
- 4 min read
As someone who is chronically online, I’m seeing what were once niche corners of the internet become mass public squares – overflowing with participation, new perspectives and conversations bubbling across different piazzas of this cyber-city known as the digital web.
One of these niche corners is the concept of fashion customization. An umbrella term supporting many layers underneath, customization is most commonly known to include, but is not limited to the historical semiotics of Doc Martens’ laces, basic embroidery or upcycling old garments, and pins and patches galore.
Let’s be clear that DIY’ing is not a new scene by any means. Throughout the 60s, 70s, and 80s, political upheaval and unrest were the catalysts for fashioning one-of-a-kind clothing items. From sewing clothes at home for 60s mod hippies, to the safety pins and distressing of 80s punks, these customizations meant signaling your identity and values to the rest of society, highlighting differences through dress.
But, the era of manufactured customization is now upon us– copying someone’s DIY to a tee, or buying the same bag charms your favorite influencer has, being advertised how to distress a purse to look “worn” or reading up on how to style the latest bag charm trends.
Now more than ever, customization is rampant for the sake of faux ‘otherness’, attention, virality, or even to fit into fashion trends, such an oxymoronic pull away from the original intent of individuality. Bags from both big and small brands like Coachtopia and Nesavaali, are ready-made to be bought with your customization elements already built into the design DNA.
Even Doc Martens, a company with consumers who have historically been a part of the DIY culture, is now selling and providing mass-manufactured charms of hearts and stars to put on shoelaces. Although a cute sentiment, is it really necessary? Better yet, is it really DIY or customizing if every customer is given the exact same four-pack of charms?
Even more over the top, brands like Juicy Couture, Cayla Gray and Prada Beauty have charms on their jewelry and beauty products. During the September ‘23 NYFW, Prada Beauty offered custom engraved tags for each Prada Paradoxe purchase. A fun event activation sure, albeit a little unnecessary.
Characterization of our personal style, like avatars, is not a bad thing and should be encouraged. But when encouraged by a system wanting you to buy, buy, buy when you could choose to get creative, make things yourself, or customize in ways that showcase your specific identity, customization loses its spark and gains capitalist points.
As explained by Rian Phin and Amy Francome for Vogue Business, “there’s an undeniable irony in how quickly it’s become codified by the fashion world” through “chaos code.” Think: Sandy Liang girls, cherry charms on almost every bag, tutorials (and later, satirical videos) on how to “Jane Birkinify” your bag. It’s not messy or DIY for DIY’s sake, it’s a signifier that you’re in on the trends, and want to be perceived as individualistic, rather than just…actually doing so.
Still, maybe it’s not all bad to be a customized, cool-girl.
Brands like the aforementioned Coachtopia include bag charms and individuality embedded into the materials for the sake of sustainability.
Coachtopia prides itself on utilizing waste as a valuable raw material and, “working backwards, crafting products from recycled, repurposed or renewable materials and designing them to live multiple lives with clear pathways for takeback, reuse or recycling.”
Even if not for sustainability reasons, the fact that customization has become ‘mainstream’ means people may feel more accepted to get experimental with their looks and brands can respectively step outside the box, in line with their consumers.
When I think of over the top customization I find myself drawn to someone like Magda Kaczmarska. If the name doesn’t ring a bell, the iconic photos of her art direction and styling probably will. Magda has gone viral for placing objects inside plain tights to create a whimsical, innovative aesthetic for herself. I love Magda’s styling for the fact that she wasn’t following the trends, but styling instinctually and wholeheartedly.
Other examples of what feels like authentic customization and unapologetic personal style are influencers Chloe Felopulos, Hollywood The Generous, Nthabiseng Marie, Aaliyah’s Interlude, and Maria Roi. Other examples of fun DIY projects I’ve seen in my feed are spray-painted hairstyles by Tasya, the button bra by designer Mila Sullivan, designs by Grace Gui, jewelry being hung on high heels, and the general use of pins, grommets, and beads in unconventional ways.
When I think of the chaotic customization, the sometimes overdone commercialization of DIY fashion, I realize there is a big gray area in deciphering true personal style and buying into the trends. It’s a beautiful thing that this once niche corner is now a bustling and growing conversation online – but only you as a consumer and fashion lover can make the choice to tread the line of being a follower or paving your own path.
My advice? Take trends with a grain of salt and allow your personal identity to flourish first and foremost. If bag charms feel authentic to you, don’t buy a mass manufactured one just because it’s trending (unless of course, you really love it and it feels special to you!) Make pieces yourself with whatever you already have at home and experiment with styling things already in your closet. If you’re not crafty, consider supporting smaller artisans of various aesthetics like @BrainB4rf, @LunaDeSangra, @SecondhandCircus, @AdannaOnMars, @HottPinkMatter and @ShopSideara.
The customized, cool-girl aesthetic you see in the online zeitgeist is a facade –– so lift the pierced, bleached, burned veil and explore DIY culture for what it truly stands for: individuality, pushing boundaries, creativity and having fun.
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